Saturday, May 18, 2013

Utah's Place of Refuge

While Spring Break is a distant memory now that the Spring quarter is in full swing, our trip hiking Zion and Bryce Canyons in late March is still imprinted on my memory as a fantastic way to jump-start sunny weather hiking and see some amazing rock formations in the process. Rich and I started out by flying to Las Vegas, the land of Sin, where we went to the under-publicized but overly stimulating Erotic Heritage Museum and then a walk along the Strip, with all its characters.


with Woody and Buzz

In the morning, we set off on a two-day backpack into Kolob Canyons to see the Kolob Arch. We set off down the canyon, along La Verkin Creek to our beautiful camp spot along the creek, about 5 miles out. We treated water with my Steri-pen, then went about exploring. When we returned to our site, about an hour later, the water level had risen and the creek was running silty, leaving us with scant water supplies.

beautiful campspot beside cloudy creek


The next morning, after an abbreviated breakfast with no coffee (gasp!), we were excited to see a clear-running creek at the Kolob Arch cut-off trail. I almost forgot to filter it first, as I was so thirsty. We filled up, saw the arch and started our hike out. Wow, it was hot! I had worn long pants, thinking it would be cooler at that elevation. The heat made everything feel heavier, longer and steeper. When we made it to the car, I was no longer even able to remove my own pack from my back. Rich helped me with it and got me into the car. Thank goodness for air conditioning!


Kolob Arch




To recover from our hot and tiring trip, the next day we explored the front-country trails in the canyon, doing the touristy stuff we probably would never have had time for if we had stuck to our original plans and not exhausted ourselves the first day. And we made sure to bring lots of water.
stroll along the river


this was the only camouflaged deer we saw in the front-country


Emerald Pool
On Tuesday, we were recovered and felt we could return to our serious hiking plans and set off for the West Rim trail. To get up to the West Rim, we had to first pass by the ultimate tourist spot in the Canyon, Angel's Landing. Named by a minister who claims the ridge is so high in the sky that he could talk to angels, the Landing juts out over the Canyon and has a spectacular view down to the floor; that is, directly down to the valley floor. The vertigo I encountered at Scout's Landing, the intermediate stop, made me feel like I could talk to angels, too. But we passed up the opportunity and headed upward toward the rim.
Walter's Wiggles
Old #99

last bit before the West Rim

Not far from the throngs of tourists, we stopped to make a clothing adjustment and I spotted what first looked to be a small dog in a tree... at the edge of a cliff. Above us, we could see a small group looking down on the tree with binoculars and we realized that it was a California Condor we were looking at, Number 99, to be exact. He was preening himself and was taking his sweet time doing it, so we could get up higher to have a bird's eye view, if you will. After we got all the pixels our cameras could handle, we headed higher and higher, toward the Rim. I should mention here that I was unburdened by my typically heavy daypack and carrying my camera bag, with two liters of water, some food and essentials, including my SLR. Rich was being the gentleman (and enabler) and carrying 7 liters since there wouldn't be any water available on the route.

TdF? No, the trail switchbacks down to Zion's valley floor

On the way down from the West Rim, back the same way, we were prepared for the mobs at Angel's Landing and ready to use our poles to prod people out of the way. Lucky for them (and us), the crowds had thinned by that time of day and we were able to have a peaceful descent.

view from East Rim



slot canyon en route from E Rim

The next day, we thought we'd give equal attention to the East Rim of the Canyon and hired a van to take us to the East entrance of the park, via the Zion-Mt Carmel Hwy, to do a one-way trip back to the main Zion Canyon. Although it was not as spectacular an ascent (it was more gentle though), the East Rim Trail had some old road, meadow, a few spots of snow and a thrilling descent back to Echo Canyon and Weeping Rock. It was great to be able to hop on a shuttle bus and let someone else do the driving back to the lodge. It was very crowded on the bus, but we did our best NY impressions and managed to squeeze in.

Big Bend from above Weeping Rock

Sooner than we realized, it was Friday and time to leave Zion and head for Bryce. Good thing the drive was very scenic, as we repeatedly had problems finding a decent cup of coffee that would have had to keep us awake on a boring highway drive. We arrived at Bryce Canyon Lodge and were getting our bags unpacked when we had another variety of adventure. Rich had gone out to the car, while I was in the shower. I had noticed that things were not quite right in the bathroom, but certainly weren't anything to be worried about. For example, there was no dowel in the toilet paper dispenser. I got ready to leave the room, only I wasn't able to open the door. I tried jiggling the handle, lifting the door in its frame, but nothing worked. I made a call to the front desk and they said they would send someone up. Apparently, they already knew about it because soon, the maintenance crew was outside the door, along with Rich, who sounded like he would break down the door to rescue me. I wondered aloud if I was going to have to let down my hair out the window so he could climb up (I have short hair), but soon the guys had the door open. What we had not realized when we had checked in was that it was opening day for the season and we were the first to test out their handiwork.

sunrise was more photogenic
Although we may have questioned the lodge's ability to heat food properly, it was our sense of adventure that lead to us cook dinner on my Pocket Rocket near the Sunset Viewpoint. Bananas Foster for dessert!


The next day, we hiked the Fairyland loop, and I was thrilled when I was able to easily scramble to the top of a flat-topped spire. WooHooDoo! (they're called Hoodoos). Hoodoo you love? I just couldn't get that song out of my head the whole day.
surreal surroundings

no color adjustment was made to the sky!

Our final day was spent doing some driving to get back to Las Vegas. At first, it looked like it was going to be a long drive on the highway, until I had a look at the map and asked about a nameless road that took us in the right direction and would provide us with new scenery. We checked with the Park Ranger and he was quick to tell us that it was not a shortcut, but he directed us to the BLM office where they could tell us more. The woman at the BLM office got excited and animated when we pointed to the road on the map. She said it was unpaved but very drivable with a regular car, but watch out for the ruts. Aside from a couple of water features, the road was as she said and went through Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, somewhere that a close friend had mentioned many times as a beautiful place to visit and explore.
Sharks in the desert? Only in Las Vegas!

We emerged on pavement in a town called Kanab, in Utah, where we found what seemed to be an oasis. Utah is well-known as being the center for Mormons, who abstain from all types of drugs which includes caffeine. It had been tricky that whole week to find a good coffee shop, but there in the little town of Kanab, we stumbled onto a coffee shop/outdoor gear/book store. We spent quite a while there, soaking up the atmosphere that we were used to in Seattle.

I had never considered myself a Zionist, until I visited Utah. Now, I'm a convert.


Thursday, February 28, 2013

The Odyssey

Each Tuesday of the past quarter, my fellow classmate Suzi and I have gone on a stairwalk and study adventure, guided by one of the walks from the Stair All Stairs website: http://seattlestairs.home.comcast.net/~seattlestairs/newer.html

This past week, we created our own adventure which included wheels and feet with food and drink. We met near the Fremont bridge, where the canal trail begins. From there, we rode to Discovery Park and locked our bikes up at the visitor's center. I changed into my walking shoes (Crocs are the lightest, most comfy shoes I own, great for transporting on the bike) and we set off on the Loop Trail around the park.

We talked fluid and electrolytes, not just because we needed them on our walk, but because we were tested on such things. We discussed pharmacology (drugs!) and the roots of nursing (Florence Nightingale). Then I spotted some swings at a park playground and we transitioned from students in nursing school to kids playing in the park.

As Suzi swung ever higher, she had her eyes and heart set on a zipline-like contraption and she flew off the swing and ran over to try it out. I encouraged her to stand on it, but Suzi is an "A" student and she decided to sit. She readied herself on the platform, then pushed off and went zooming down the zipline, then rebounded partway back. Then she tried it again... and a bunch more times. My turn came and I went from feeling like a stiff clutz to, well, a kid on a playground. What a blast that was! We gave each other a look and agreed that we had better get back to the studying if we were going to make it through the week (we had 6 exams to take).

We got back on our bikes and made our way into a headwind to Magnolia Village. At Uptown Espresso, when they told me they did not have pie, I remarked that we might as well be in Inner Mongolia. After all, no one outside of the neighborhood seems to know where Magnolia is, let alone how to find the village. And ever since Seattle Pie Company closed, I have had no reason to visit there. Luckily, Uptown serves up some really nice mochas, with their signature "Velvet Foam", so we consumed happily and studied for a couple of hours in their roomy, well-lit cafe.

At noon, our tummies were rumbling and we were at a loss for where to eat. I checked my handy app and saw there was a bistro about a block away, on a street no one ever goes to. Inner Mongolia, here we come! I have no idea how Tanglewood Supreme draws enough customers to stay open, tucked as it is along a dumpster-laden back alley, but the food there was delicious regardless. Those Mongolians must eat out a lot to support their local businesses.

Bellies full, we revved our engines and headed for a new study venue closer to each of our home bases. Fremont has a lot of coffee shops, but I wanted more than caffeine and settled on Wine Tea Chocolate. Woo hoo, now we're talkin'! I ordered a pot of tea and we found a cozy spot near the windows with a nice view of our bikes. After reviewing more powerpoints (we both have ipads – awesome for studying – welcome to the 21st century) and answering questions, the yawns began. We tried to power through but we needed some outside help. It was time for some chocolate!

I told Suzi that she had chosen a good study partner, not because I am a straight-A student or super diligent, but because I have excellent taste in chocolate. After devouring (delicately, of course) a bar of Amano and Dandelion, she agreed.

The day was coming to an end and the sun would soon set, so we ended our studying, packed up our bikes and I rode with her down the west side of Lake Union to warm up for the climb home. With all the time and funds invested into studying for the exam, I hope we both get a good return on our investments. We certainly had a lot of fun doing it.


Tuesday, February 5, 2013

Tales of the Adventurers

Rampart Ridge, across Gold Creek
Today found our winter adventurers in the woods adjacent to Gold Creek, navigating to the ridge that leads up to Kendall Peak Lakes. The cast of characters included Rich, Dave and Louise, all of similar fitness levels and all having recently completed the Mountaineers Navigation Course (with Dave instructing). As our adventurers shunned the road for the purity of the backcountry, navigation came into play. As there were no clear tracks in the direction they wanted to travel (up), they had to set their own course.
Highbox Mt


After winding through trees and some steep terrain, they stopped for refreshments, when they noticed two sprightly people, a young man and his lass, coming up behind them in their tracks. They moved swiftly and gracefully, with a youthful exuberance and thanked our adventurers for a fine track to follow. Then they chose a steep route as they passed, going directly upward from where our adventurers were standing.
Sir Hilary? No, just Rich

After consulting the map, the more mature group headed slightly to the west, finding the terrain more to their liking. At the top of the next rise, our adventurers met up with the sprightly folk who had struggled on the steepness of the slope and the hardness of the snow.

Having conserved so much energy, our wise adventurers went bounding through the snow like snowshoe hares, shedding years as they basked in the sunshine of their accomplishment and of the sun which shone brightly on the ridge.

Dave, with Rampart Ridge


Wednesday, January 30, 2013

Forecast for Sun

As we anticipate the coming weekend with a promise of sun, here is a trip made a few weeks ago when a short-lived cold-and-sunny snap had just hit Seattle.




The forecast was for cold temps, but we were ok with that since we were going to the mountains and would have our layers on and be generating some body heat. While summiting Snoqualmie Pass in Nicole's car, the temperature read 18 degrees; that would have been a relative heat wave for where we were going.

We drove east to Exit 80, then north toward Roslyn and Lake Cle Elum. When I saw the temp was headed for the single digits, I called for a coffee stop in Roslyn. Upon exiting the car, each of us (Rich, Dave, Lisa, Nicole and I) remarked that it didn't feel so cold, though of course we were moving fast to get inside for warmth. We each had a hot drink and sampled the cafe's treats, then we each used the restroom. When I glanced outside, it didn't look any warmer, but we had already used up all the cafe's resources so it was time to go.

We drove as far north along Lake Cle Elum as we could, stopping once we realized we were about to trammel the snowmobile route and parked near the Jolly Mountain trailhead. We had wasted (I mean, enjoyed) enough time so that now it was a whopping 10 degrees. I celebrated the double digits by whooping and jumping, swinging my arms (to keep my circulation going, of course). On the walk from the car to the start of our snowshoe, about 1/2 mile, my feet froze completely solid. Dave offered me some chemical heat, but the thought of taking off my boots didn't sound too appealing.
a wabbit?


The collective leadership and navigational experience was soon put into practice as we made our way from the horse camp, up a road and toward the trail. We crossed a creek, then doubled back and re-crossed the same creek, looking for a better route. Soon, my trail-sniffing senses were alert (they must be temperature sensitive) and all the compass and map training I'd had in November with Rich and Dave were put aside for feelings, hunches and following the sun.

Soon, we found the summer trail and followed it upward as it zigged and zagged, traversing above creek beds and arriving on benches and logging roads. Our main goal was to be in the sunshine and we allowed some sunning breaks, admiring the peaks that began to pop up behind the forested slopes to the northwest. After gaining a thousand feet or so, it became a game to name what peaks we were looking at. There was Chikamin, Lemah and Three Queens, though I was much more accustomed to seeing them from Spectacle Lake on the PCT. To the north was Chimney Rock which is not very often seen and makes a very dramatic appearance behind a ridge in the foreground.
Cooper River Valley

We were running out of time, as I had set the turn-around time at 1:30pm and so, in a desperate attempt to get as high as we could before that time, we ditched the trail and just headed straight up the mountain. When we reached the next logging road, we stopped for photos and gawking.
Nicole, Rich, Dave and Lisa

Gawking and pixelations taken care of, we did something that is only permissible in winter – we cut the switchbacks on the trail as though the act of switchbacking might shorten our lives. Down and down we went, making quick work of all the effort we had put into ascending just a few hours earlier.

Sunday, January 20, 2013

Rising Above

Mt Baker from Poo Poo Point

Rich and I had plans to hike up out of the fog layer that had been hanging over Seattle for the past few days after all the cold and sunshine we'd had. In addition, there was a temperature inversion so it was much colder down in the city than up high in the mountains.

Chirico, or Inca trail?






We went to Tiger Mt via the Chirico Trail, which was pretty busy for a cool, foggy morning, so our idea of climbing above the fog wasn't completely original. The trail was as beautiful as ever, made even more so by the freezing fog on the branches, ferns and even the spider webs. As we climbed higher, which the trail does pretty steadily, we could see the fog taking on a blueish hue and we got even more excited about what was waiting at the top.

Our excitement was peaked when we arrived at Poo Poo Point where not only did Squak and Cougar Mts look like islands, but the Olympics were in view, as was Mt Baker to the north which I think was the first time I had seen Mt Baker from this viewpoint. We soaked in the good air and sunshine (free Vit D), then headed down the road on our loop hike. There was intermittent snow and ice on the road, but the temperature still allowed us to be in light layers. After a little more than a mile, we reached the Hidden Tiger trail and headed up on the quad-burning steep trail for a little less than a mile to gain over 800 feet and reach the Tiger Mt Trail.

frozen fog on fern
In a short bit, we turned off that to the One View Trail, then the RR Grade back to Poo Poo Point.  By that time in the day (afternoon), the paraglider take-off spot was mobbed with people who had also come up high to rise out of the fog and bask in the sunshine. Our departure was delayed as we people-watched, dog-watched, soaked in more sun and just plain lollygagged in the warm and clear air. It was very hard to leave and once we did, we descended back down into the fog, encouraging those we saw on the trail who were coming up, promising that it really was worth the effort.
Squak and Cougar islands



Back at the trailhead, it was as though we had never left, as it was still cold and moist air. But, somehow, the feeling of knowing what was up above and that it was accessible without too much effort, made dealing with the fog much more bearable.

Sunday, January 6, 2013

1989: Part Four


I feel like I have turned in a writing assignment about a week late, as my 25th year in Seattle has already come to a close. But finishing this chapter of my life was a task connected to many emotions some very painful.  To refresh your memory, here is the link to Part Three.

The next morning, I arrived at Swedish Hospital and was given an interesting shave job so they could perform an arteriogram into both of my femoral arteries to see what was blocking one of them. I don't remember all the details leading up to the procedure itself, but the main gist is that they had inserted a catheter into my femoral artery, then filled it with some type of dye and it would show up on the x-ray. I don't think they had given me anything for pain. Before the imaging started, when they told me to lay perfectly flat and not to move; the doctor said I might feel a little pain. Then, the nurse leaned in close and said, "It's gonna burn like hell!". Guess what... the nurse was right. Oh man, I had never felt anything like that or knew that that level of pain was acceptable in a medical procedure in the first world. In spite of the burning sensation, I had to keep my body still, so I couldn't curl up into a little ball, as was my natural reflex. They did the procedure twice, once for each leg for comparison, though it didn't become any less painful, especially since I knew what to expect.

After it was over and they were pondering what to do next, a man came through the door (is it too dramatic to say he burst through the door?) and stated, "I think I can help this woman." Apparently, Swedish has a meeting each week to discuss difficult cases and I was one of those; no one quite knew what the cause was or what exactly to do about it. For my situation, this man was very timely. After the arteriogram had exposed a narrowing in my artery, they didn't know where to proceed from there. There had been restricted blood flow below my right knee for nearly three weeks and they were worried about tissue death and the onset of gangrene. They had been considering amputation of my right leg below the knee.

The guy who had appeared at the last moment was an anesthesiologist who had dabbled in some natural modalities, particularly something called Bonnie Pruden's Pain Erasure Method . It was a way to get muscles to release that were in spasm. The concept is similar to giving Ritalin, an upper, to someone with ADD. The result is that it speeds up processes in the brain so much, that the brain has to relax. In my case, a practitioner would increase stress on a muscle until the point where it relaxed. It was a great premise and would eventually work, but the only problem was that my foot hurt to be touched, even just a little. And all those muscles that were tight all the way up my leg were sore and tender to the touch. I found this out as the anesthesiologist made his way systematically from my foot to my butt, finding every tight spot by how hard I grimaced. Since I was in the hospital, I took advantage of having a nursing staff there with me. They asked if I would like to grip their hands to deal with the pain. That was very kind of them, but I sincerely hope I didn't hurt either of them as I tightened my grip relentlessly while it felt like the doctor was cutting into me with a knife. A couple of times, I raised my head to check out what was going on, sure that he had some type of sharp object in his hand. He held up his empty hands so I could see them, then went back to work.

After he worked my right leg, he continued to the left, just for good measure (and because the body works in strange ways sometimes) and was finally done. My pulse could be felt at the ankle for the first time in 3 weeks. Phew! They moved me to a hospital bed in the outpatient area to recover and I was hooked to a machine that read blood pressure and pulse every 15 minutes. My first visitor, a friend who brought flowers, looked at the latest reading and immediately registered worry on his face. My pulse is normally in the low to mid-forties range when I'm in good physical shape, but that is below the norm for most people. My next visitor, a cousin, brought me chocolate which, when I consumed it, immediately brought my heart-rate up to "normal" levels. I figured it was like my heart was going for a run while I was laying in bed eating chocolate.

The recovery phase followed, which was slow and exhausting. I stayed with a friend (the guy who brought flowers) from the climbing class, who lived on the second floor of his building and, in those first weeks, it was all I could do to make it up the flight of stairs without stopping to rest on the way. Later, I moved into a crazy house as one of six housemates (they made room for me by giving me the "bike room"). I had worked with one of them as a messenger and the others were a whitewater rafting guide (we went on one of his trips – what a blast!), a guitarist in a new band (then called Sage), a cashier at the Grand Illusion, a local independent cinema; and a plant grower at the Indoor Sun Shoppe (where the feds always raided, looking for marijuana).

Slowly, my walking distance increased, I started swimming at the Green Lake pool and got out on my bike for short rides, working on my endurance little by little. It was mentally very draining to go from being a super-fit messenger-triathlete to having to start all over again from the beginning. But I was determined to get better and be able to go on real bike rides again, though maybe not so many miles and not without eating high quality protein and getting lots of rest in between.

Little by little, I regained my strength and my endurance came back agonizingly slowly, yet still came back. By the end of the following year, I was ok to go on a backpack trip to Yellowstone, though when my friends wanted to go on a long dayhike, I stayed behind and swam in the creek with the ducks and fish. It was not to say that I had completely learned my lesson about not doing too much and taking rests, but I was still in my 20s and showing as much restraint as I could manage, given all the adventurous people I had in my current circle.

Over the years, I have had other overuse injuries (the signs of which were a doctor's confusion over the diagnosis), yet none as serious as that first one. I am grateful for the care I received and very appreciative of having both my legs with which to participate in many future adventures.

Tuesday, December 18, 2012

Two-Step Shuttle


Nicole's got the fever!
I set this hike up as a one-way trip with a car shuttle from the lower Twin Falls trailhead to the Iron Horse TH near Rattlesnake Lake so that we could maximize hiking and scenery which is increasingly difficult this time of year.

Starting out, it was pretty cold, so we kept moving, taking short and infrequent breaks. I forgot to pack dog treats which was a mistake. Not for my own dog; I don't have one. But for all the dogs out with their people on the trail. Nice dogs!

The side trail to view Twin Falls had a little ice so we bypassed it (no busted tailbones today, please) and kept going up, through some slick spots (think skating on the bridge), to the John Wayne Pioneer Trail. For the next 3.5 miles on the trail, it snowed lightly but with determination. There is another waterfall along the way, which was beautiful.

We found the turn-off for Cedar Butte and went up the direct route, admiring the light snow carpeting the green moss and lichen along the way. It was as if the snow had turned all the deep green to a lighter shade. The summit was like a winter wonderland, but not icy or treacherous to get there or back down. There was no view, but we used our imagination.
happiness is...


From there, it was a short jaunt to our waiting cars at the Iron Horse TH (where there are more bathrooms) and we did the shuttle back to Twin Falls and home.